Category: Uncategorized
A Sensible Discussion About Sugar (and a sponge cake)

There are an awful lot of hyped up conversations about sugar going on and sugar free is in, big time – another book, another movie, another fractionalised approach to food. I’ve stayed out of this debate, preferring to run a conversation in my books and classes about a wholefoods and wholistic life, but after reading this great article by Jess Cox, I felt it was timely to put forward what I consider a sensible conversation about sugar. This also coincided with the passing of my dear friends Denise and Julies’ mum – Shirley – but more about that later.
When I started out on my wholefood path some 25 years ago, I too saw things from quite a black or white perspective – I had not yet learnt that things are always far deeper and more complex than at first glance and that it is generally not what the food IS that makes it good, or wholesome and healthy, ethical or sustainable, but how we grow it, process and prepare it that is. And, the context in which we source it, eat it and the life we live. And my, but is sugar a great example of this, and of a wholefood philosophy and a wholistic lifestyle in general.
From a wholefood perspective, we could say that cane sugar juice in its natural state is a rich source of vitamins, minerals enzymes, fibers and phytonutrients, which the body requires to digest the sucrose and provide a slow release of fuel. Indeed the minerals calcium, phosphorous, chromium, magnesium, cobalt, copper, iron, zinc and manganese are absolutely essential for this process. To store over long periods and stop it from fermenting, cane juice is boiled to evaporate water and this end product is known by many names – for example Rapadura or Panela (they do the same thing, for the same reason to maple syrup and coconut palm nectar). In its traditional homes (Central and South Americas) it is consumed within the context of a whole and balanced diet and is considered a healthful and nourishing food – this is what we should be referring to when we use the words cane sugar. But, I do understand that in most cases, when we say the word sugar, we are referring to what we know as refined sugar – the cane juice instead is boiled under vacuum to achieve high enough temperatures for crystallisation, with all nutrients removed or at the very least with a few left in, during the refining process. It is a very different thing because of the way it has been processed and now, without the wealth of nutrients and polyphenols to aid the digestion of sucrose and slow down its release, it will hit the blood stream too quickly. I also understand very well that our bodies have not evolved to handle this, however will do it’s best – pulling nutrients from elsewhere in the body leading to depletion.
Which brings me to Shirley. One of the things that came through so clearly and strongly at the funeral of this very beautiful woman (both inside and out) when people spoke about their memories of her, was that the cake and biscuit tin was always full – made with refined white flour and sugar – and in the profound words of the CWA (Country Womens Association), ‘it’s not just about the scones and tea’. Shirley was always there, her door was always open, with a cup of tea and comfort. Somehow (according to the current fractionalised views on sugar) with this refined sugar in their diet Shirley and Ralph raised exceptional, healthy, wonderful children that contribute so much to our community. Somehow Shirley and Ralph lived full, happy and rich lives. Now I could also be talking of my mum (and indeed much of this generation now in their late 80’s and 90’s), who still makes biscuits and muffins for when people drop in, or to give to others. She uses white flour and refined white sugar. From a wholistic perspective (the one that fascinates me the most) is that I honestly don’t think that this bit of white sugar in a whole and balanced diet is evil, or cause disease, or indeed is going to kill you. But eating a lot of refined white sugar and flour, low fat, processed vegetable oil, nutrient deficient, additive laden food in a stressful life possibly will. From this wholistic perspective, I think we are looking in all the wrong places for salvation (hello green smoothie).I think it is far more important that we focus our attention on the fundamentals which you can find here, and when these are strong and in place (as they most certainly have been and in many cases still are in our very older generations) the issue of refined white sugar diminishes. And of course the elephant in the room always is that whilst people might be ditching refined white sugar, but they are most certainly not ditching sweetness – sweetness is always about balance and context.
Personally, my choice is for less refined sweeteners, I like the flavours and nuanced sweetness they give, but when I eat my mum’s muffins I am partaking in powerful love medicine. I love rapadura sugar, but when I do want a cane sugar with less impact I will choose the semi refined (but still crystallised) sugars such as the Billingtons range, where less goodness is taken out in the beginning. I also love maple syrup, maple sugar, coconut palm sugar and brown rice syrup (but take note all brands of BRS are not equal and in Australia I choose Spiral), and of course fruit. I dislike and do not advocate products such as Agave or Xylitol – both highly refined products.
Shirley was known for and for her love of a good sponge cake and for the time she took to sit down with others. Afternoon tea is a great way to slow down on the weekend and stop, and for some to lay their burdens down. I thought you might like to make one for a weekend in the warmer spring weather. A sponge is certainly my favourite cake too – I love it with passionfruit and banana. If a sponge is not your thing, there’s plenty more delicious options in my book Wholefood Baking (and don’t forget to check out the yummy Choc Peanut Truffles on Jess’ post. Vale Shirley.
Apple, Parsnip and Sage Fritters

It’s been a long time since I’ve been here with you, and done a blog post, lots of very good reasons for sure, but at the heart of it was a plate that was full to overflowing, and an entirely new email and web system being built, both on different platforms than before. Doing a blog in between platforms just felt a little too daunting.Totally rebuilding the website from scratch demanded that I also have a very good think why I continued to keep a blog in the new website. I loved this article on maintaining a long term blog by Heidi Swanson, and others at that time – Heidi talks about this being her practice and the commitment to that practice, and it made me query just actually what my practice was. Along with cooking, writing and photography, the blog itself was a part of her practice. It became immediately clear that for me, my blog was not an essential part of my practice – but rather teaching and writing, that formed that core. I’m not a great photographer and to be honest, I don’t want to learn too much more there – I just don’t have room in my brain for that. That room is saved for learning more about how fats – or any food really – works. I don’t have the ability to run a consistent weekly, fortnightly or monthly blog – some times I am just loaded with teaching commitments (the Whole and Natural Foods Chef Training for example), and sharing my knowledge with in the books I write.
Knowing this, I settled with going ahead with the blog and that I will make it here monthly as best I can, but I knew that I also wanted to be here with you and share what is going on, life and recipe or two. But I also know that I share all those things with you in each of my books, and most certainly in the new book (May 2016) – the book is just about finished (just a few more recipes to go) and editing to commence. I’m incredibly happy with this new baby, I think you will be too. My plan is to post here monthly, and to send out a quarterly newsletter with information and cooking for the season ahead – you can subscribe to that newsletter here
For now, I’d like to give you this yummy and simple recipe, using very seasonal ingredients and to say how lovely it is to be back here with you. Right now, parsnips are being pulled and apples are being picked, and they are a glorious combination. Combined with sage and herbs, a little left over cooked grain and a couple of eggs, they make the most wonderful fritters to eat, any time of the day. I think they will be perfect for the cooler Autumn weather over the long weekend.
x Jude

Wholefood Cooking Heads to Brisbane – 3 weeks to go!
Upcoming Seminar

With the prevalence of allergies, dairy and gluten intolerance, it’s time to cover the basics of good gut health and digestion and most importantly the fundamentals of cooking and baking dairy and/or gluten free foods that are nourishing and delicious. Gluten and/or dairy free supper and refreshments served.
Time: 6.30 – 8.30pm
Bookings to (07) 38441132
Mondo Organics, 166 Hardgrave Road, West End.
Order tickets online at Mondo Organic
Look forward to seeing you there!
X Jude
PS Please note the Brisbane Cooking Class is fully booked.
Anatomy of a Snack
ANATOMY OF A SNACK FOR CHILDREN AND ADULTS
| Pear Anzac |
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Violet’s Porridge Pancakes: Left over rolled oat porridge turned into pancakes – ready for snacking on a plate or in a container |
One of the questions asked at the recent seminar in Sydney ” Growing Healthy Children with Food to Heal, Nourish and Delight” with Holly Davis and Rosalba Courtney was about snacks. I didn’t have time to fully answer the issue, because it’s not a simple few words answer. I can give you heaps of ideas for snacks, but it won’t get to the root of the issue. Which is this – a child’s body has a vast daily requirement for nutrients – these are must needs, non – debatable. So does an adult – you might not be growing, but you are still running a body and doing. It is best to get the bulk of nutrients and fuel from meals – breakfast, lunch and dinner – a snack should be a pit stop in the day. A meal provides nutrients for the journey/time span ahead (just like petrol in the car) – and the more nutrient dense that is, the more fuel you have. Protein and Fat will give more slow release sustaining fuel, over a longer period of time than complex, whole carbohydrates and vitamins and minerals in vegetables and fruit. I’m not saying that these carbohydrates, vegetables and fruits are bad, just that they won’t keep you going for long. No matter what your age, it’s a good idea to first ensure that your breakfast, lunch and dinner are nutrient dense and your day is well balanced – that is you are eating a balance of nutrients.
I see the biggest reliance on snacks in adults and children that primarily don’t have enough fuel in the first place – that piece of fruit for breakfast won’t last long, that rolled oat porridge (no matter how healthy that sounds) with fruit, yoghurt with a seed and nut mix might keep you going 1 – 2 hours tops, that bowl of cereal (but I hope you don’t have that) again 1 – 2 hours tops, that salad for lunch – 1 hour of fuel tops and so it goes. But an eggy, vegetable breakfast cooked in a bit of ghee (or an organic/nitrate free bacon fat for a dairy free option) will provide a far longer, more grounded and sustaining fuel and is a different thing. This idea can be altered in cut and look for young children. Add more nutrient density with a little bit of organic, nitrate free bacon, ham or sausage and you have even more fuel. Having had egg (protein and fat with some vegetables) for breakfast, consider a lunch that includes some complex carbohydrate and protein (and vegetables for vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients, anti oxidants etc) Salad and Lentil and Walnut Pate, a slice of Mushroom Rice and Chard Bake, a thick legume or grain and vegetable soup etc. It might be as simple as some left over grain, tossed with cooked or raw vegetables, some seeds, possibly cooked grains and a dressing. Or having had that healthy porridge, plan for something sustaining for morning tea – a hard boiled egg (we did this for afternoon tea during shooting the pictures for the new book and it saved the day), vegetable fritter, soup etc. I could say also that if it’s Omega 3 Essential Fatty Acids you’re after – that organic, grass pastured egg will provide a better dose (more bio available too) than the ubiquitous chia seed.

There are heaps of idea’s for breakfast, lunch and dinners in my books, and some on my blog. Heaps of idea’s on others also – my fave’s being Heidi Swanson and Jamie Oliver – but all over the web, or magazines you will find them.
But, it’s snacks we are really talking about – that which keeps us topped up until we can get to the petrol station (the meal) and THE THING IS ANY FOOD CAN BE A SNACK. It could be that scrambled egg that wasn’t finished, it could be cold porridge from the day before turned into a pikelet (picture at top), it can be a muffin or cookie, it could be an apple and a piece of cheese, it could be a hard boiled egg, it could be a vegie fritter, it could be a little salad, it could be some fresh or stewed fruit with cream/labne/yoghurt. What it is about is that it fits the nutrient balance of the day – if you’ve had egg for breakfast, then a hard boiled egg snack doesn’t work. If you’ve had porridge for breakfast, then other carbohydrate based snacks (crackers/muffins/bread etc) doesn’t work.
The goal of that snack is to keep you going until your next major fuel intake – a meal. Remember also that in winter, and with young children (well, really even older children and teenagers) afternoon tea is really more about a meal (read early dinner) than a snack. For those older children it’s about a mini meal. The motto here is MEET THE HUNGER AT TIME – this means, when you or your child come home starving, eat something nutrient dense. Fruit – no matter how healthy it might be, won’t cut it. But a bowl of soup (size to vary with age) and perhaps a warm Pear Anzac, just might. A fat and protein in the form of a chunk of good cheese or peanut paste with that apple makes a difference. The need for fuel has been met, the body can relax and move onto learning (homework), doing (getting dinner made, getting children into bed) and sleep is often better.
P.S
The porridge pikelets were made for Violet, who decided she really didn’t like the porridge I made. But being me, I wouldn’t let her waste it but rather found a format that she did like. They were made from rolled oats (approx 1 1/2 cups) and 1 tablespoon currents or sultana’s soaked overnight in water and 1 teaspoon whey, then cooked the next morning with an apple grated into it, with 1 tablespoon rapadura sugar. We ate this as porridge. To make the pikelets I measured out 1 cup cold, very thick porridge into a bowl, added 1 large egg and some cinnamon. Mix it up. I like to fry these in coconut oil – it gives a delicious crispyness to the edges, but ghee is fine also. The key for these is to make sure they are well cooked on one side (at least 5 minutes over a medium/gently sizzling heat) or until they are very golden and well cooked before turning. They are tricky to turn, but easier if well – cooked and doable. Not doable at all if you use a dodgy plastic turner – try a nice, sharp stainless steel one.
PEAR ANZACS
Wheat Free – Low Gluten
I like to add finely chopped glace ginger to these for an adult version. They will be just as delicious cold, but easy to warm in the oven if desired. You can easily replace the rolled oats with Quinoa or Amaranth Flakes for a gluten – free option.
4 – 5 small – medium ripe pears
1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup white/unbleached spelt flour (oat or barley flour)
1/2 cup light brown or rapdura sugar
1/4 cup desiccated coconut
1/2 – 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
100 gm unsalted butter or ghee
1/2 cup walnuts or other nuts
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
Pre- heat the oven to 180c or 165c if fan forced. Cut the pears in half, scoop out the core and lay in a large ovenproof dish, cut side up.
Combine the oats, flour, sugar, coconut, cinnamon and butter in a bowl, or place in a food processor. Rub the butter into the dry ingredients until combined, or pulse until the mixture is just coming together, taking care not to overmix. Add the walnuts and fold through, or give a quick pulse.
Divide the mixture in and lightly mould into the pears. Pour 1 cup of water (even pear juice is yummy) into the dish with the vanilla. Bake for 30 – 40 minutes or until the pears just ‘give’ when gently squeezed.
Phew, time to take a deep breath
Well, that’s it. The flour has settled, and the manuscript is in. If you’re wondering why there has been no posts, and where I’ve been, I’ve been a mighty long way down the rabbit hole – quite a few of them actually. It’s interesting, when I write a book, I inhabit it body and soul and my mind resides in whatever recipe I’m working on – literally, dreaming about them. Many recipes can be challenging, some cakes more so than others, and I find recipe development a good spiritual test to stay grounded, whilst all around you chaos reigns. The picture above is from final cake testing week, with a good long list of all the things I thought needed some double checking. Vanessa came to help me and below, is her daughter Ariel snapped one cold winters night in her pajama’s, without knowing, enjoying the fruits of our work.
Today is my first second day since sending it in and I feel a bit like I’ve just finished high school – ready to go nuts, but not sure in which capacity to go nuts first. I’m unwinding, but yesterday was my daughters birthday, so I cooked dinner and took it over to my Mum’s, where we had Nessie’s choice of dinner – slow roasted organic lamb shanks, mash and brussels, and Delia Smith’s Lemon Curd Steamed Pudding. On a freezing cold winters night (oh glory, it’s cold) it was the perfect meal. There’s been a lot of debate going on this past two weeks about the role of meat in our diets after the revelations about the slaughter of our cattle in Indonesia, with many calling for a vegetarian diet. I can’t agree with this, and think it represents a shallow response to the entire issue. I couldn’t even watch the Four Corners program on this, I knew I would be to distressed, as I have been for the past 20 years with how we grow, treat, feed and behave in general to our animals, but also to all our food. I have for the past 20 years felt very strongly that we should only be eating animals that have been able to live their pigness, cowness or sheepness (or whatever), allowed to eat the food they are meant to eat (and for many that is grass/pasture and not grain), that do not have their lives devalued and disrespected by the accepted value that any means justifies the financial end, they are loved and respected in their lives, and in their death. That all parts of the animal are eaten, and that thanks is given. I love that first scene in the movie The Last of the Mohican’s (one of my favourite movies), where the deer is killed, and before anything else is done, they give respect to it’s speed, give thanks for it’s life and gratitude for the exceptionally nutrient dense food it will provide.
Whilst I am absolutely respectful of a persons choice not to eat meat, I think that we should understand the vital role animals play in organic and bio dynamic farming systems, and the exceptionally nutrient dense foods they provide. One of favourite books in the last year has been The Vegetarian Myth, by Lierre Keith. I found this hard going, but very interesting reading and can highly recommend it. The question to eat or not to eat meat because death is involved, or the impact of animals on ecosystems is enormously complex and deserves a good deal of thought. I am a huge believer that to eat is take life – no matter what we grow, some death is involved – pests, microbes and the concept of consciousness applies just as much to vegetables as to animals in my book. I do however absolutely agree that we cannot continue to eat meat how we have been – frequently, and picking out bits whilst discarding others, and I’d like to see respect and honour re enter our farming and food production systems. If you live in Western Australia, try here and here and here and here – these are all certified organic or bio – dynamic by people passionate about what they do, that honour and respect animals.
I’ll be back with recipes and life – I’m heading off for a week in the rain forrest to visit my dear friend Jeanie and her daughter Violet, as they move in the house they built. Much food will be cooked, wine will be drunk and thanks will be given for good food and friendship.
x Jude
Pistachio Cupcake with a Fresh Strawberry and Rose Better Buttercream (from the new book)” width=”640″ height=”http://wholefoodcooking.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/IMG_3107-654×491.jpg”> Pistachio Cupcake with a Fresh Strawberry and Rose Better Buttercream (from the new book)Full Moon
Full Moon from the Front Verandah Friday 18th Feb” width=”300″ height=”http://wholefoodcooking.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Full-Moon-375×500.jpg”> Full Moon from the Front Verandah Friday 18th FebMy phone buzzed with a message ” Mum, check out the moon” and indeed, it was worth checking out. Rising full after another too hot a day, thank goodness we are heading towards Autumn, and leaving summer. Mind you, there will be more heat, but it’s been a hot summer. In fact, a very hot week – this is what I’ve been turning too for breakfast – you know, when you need something fresh, but with a bit of body. Now, this salad pictured is using strawberries and mulberries, and was taken a few weeks ago – those fruits have gone, and I’ve been using late season peaches. Same plan – greens (whatever you have), ripe gorgeous fruit and a soft cheese – I love goat, in particular the Ringwould Blanc. Located in the South Western Australia, the Saunders family took on Gabrielle Kervella’s legendary goats, and transplanted the business from the dry hills of Gidge, to the lush green of the south west. It’s a beautiful, young cheese, but I would just as easily use the Frais.
Toss it together with a delicious dressing – I’ve used a fruity oil (Agonis Ridge Olive Oil pressed with Orange – a West Australian Organic Olive Oil) but if I had any good quality Walnut Oil left, I would have used that. Vinegar – definitely depends on the fruit – but balsamic is a great choice for those dark mulberries, but for peaches I’ve been using a raspberry wine vinegar my sister gave me for Christmas. Salt, pepper and just a touch of maple syrup if needed – I’ve kept the garlic out of it. Taste and play with the dressing – really it just needs a touch of sharpness, oilyness, salt and it’s delicious.Toasted nuts would also be a great addition – and a little more nutrient density to keep you going.
Just so you can see that I haven’t been slacking off, a photo of the testing that’s been going on in the kitchen. I am in Baking Book land, currently in biscuit and bar land. The terrain is interesting, I am even
dreaming of them. Yesterday I was absolutely seduced by the idea of a World Peace cookie, having seen Dorie Greenspan’s chocolate cookie of the same name (she is a fabulous baker), but I felt the chocolate shortbread wouldn’t be quite enough to induce world peace, and thus indeed, found myself dreaming of said World Peace cookie last night – I’m still not quite there, but in my dreams it looked golden and flecked with orange and dark cherry, and in that dreaming way, absolutely knew that this was the one. Mmm, must be that full moon.
So onwards I go searching for the World Peace Holy Grail of cookies – wishing you full moon insights, love and deliciousness
x Jude
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